Bulletin No. 24. (i?- a. i. i:?.»-l)airy No. 28.) 

U. S. DEPARTMENT OE ACxRICULTURE. 

3 F BUREAU OP ANIMAL INDUSTRY. 



132. 
NOTES UPON .DAIRYING IN CALIFORNIA 



AND 



THE EXPORT OF CALIFORNIA BUTTER 
TO THE ORIENT. 



E. A. PEARSON, M. S., 

ASSISTAKT CUIKl' OP DAIRY DIVISION. 



Prep.aretl under tbn direction of 

Dr. D. E. SALMON, 

Chiff oT tlie Brii-eaix of -A.«.iinal IiTtlnstr-y. 




WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTINO OFFICE. 

1900. 



f;^?!^^!!^^ 




Gass c 

Book . 



o 



Bulletin No. 24. (K- ^- 1- 134-T)airy No. 28.) 

U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 

BUREAU OF ANIMAL INDUSTRY. 



^ ~ /Cf 



yfy- 



NOTES UPON DAIRYING IN CALIFORNIA 



THE EXPORT OF CALIFORNIA BUTTER 
TO THE ORIENT. 



BY 



K. A. PI^:ARS0N, M. S., 

ASSISTANT CIIIKI- OF DAIRY DIVISION. 



Prepared uiiiler tli(^ direction of 

Dr. D. E. SALMON, 
Chief oT the JJui'ea,\i of -A-iaixnal Ijuliit^t i-y. 




WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 

19 0O 

^CJ ..... .. 






OCT 20 1906 
D. of a 




LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. 



U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

Bureau of Animal Industry, 

Washington, D. C, Octoher 31, 1899. 
Sir: I have the honor to transmit herewith a manuscript entitled 
"Notes upon dairying in California and the export of California but- 
ter to the Orient," prepared l)y Mr. B,. A. Pearson, as.->istant chief of 
the Dairy Division. 

Mr. Pearson recently visited California under your orders, and this 
report of his visit is prepared in accordance withj^our direction. The 
California State Fair and the annual convention of the State Dairy- 
men's Association were attended with a view to meeting representative 
men and inquiring as to the present condition of the dairy industry in 
that State and the possibilities of supplying dairy products suitable 
for export from the Pacific coast. 

This paper contains numerous suggestions which may be of special 
interest to California dairymen at this time, and I reconnnend its pub- 
lication as a bulletin. 

Respectfully, D. E. Salmon, 

Chief of Bureau. 
Hon. James Wilson, ISetretai'y. 

3 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

The State fair 9 

Dairy live stock 9 

Dairy machinery 9 

Butter 10 

The Dairymen's Association 11 

The increase of butter production 12 

Foreign markets for surplus 12 

Preparation of butter for warm climates 13 

Causes affecting hardness of butter 14 

Method of making 14 

Preservatives 15 

Packages 16 

Some purposes of the Department's exports 17 

The present export trade 18 

Unnatural conditions of home market 19 

Dairy management 19 

Beet sugar by-products 20 

Sugar-beet pulp 21 

Sugar-beet tojis 22 

California creameries 23 

Payment for milk 23 

Handling alfalfa milk 25 

California squares 25 

Cheese making 26 

City milk supply 27 

Dairy education 27 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PLATES. 

Page. 
Plate I. Fig. 1, a California dairy herd; fig. 2, combined dairy and sugar 

beet ranch 20 

II. Fig. 1, sugar beet pulp silo; fig. 2, wilted beet tops, from the field, 

ready for feeding 22 

III. Fig. 1, creamery at Watsonville; fig. 2, butter chests awaiting to be 

packed 24 

IV. Fig. 1, cutting squares of butter; fig. 2, wrapping squares of butter. 

FIGURE. 

Fig. 1. Butter packed ready for shipment 24 

7 



NOTES UPON DAIRYING IN CALIFORNIA AND THE EXPORT OF 
CALIFORNIA BUTTER TO THE ORIENT. 



THE STATE FAIR. 

The California State fair at Sacramento, September 4 to 16, 1899, was 
said to be the most successful ever held by the State board of agricul- 
ture. The number of exhibits was larger than in previous j^ears and 
the number of visitors had never been equaled. Although the dairy 
features of the fair were overshadowed by the exhibits of fruits and 
vegetables, which were shown in great number and variet}", and by the 
usual displays of agricultural products and implements, a very credit- 
able showing was made of dair}^ stock, implements, and products. 

DAIRY LIVE STOCK. 

In the live-stock department were representatives of the leading 
milk breeds of the State — Jerseys, Holsteins, and Shorthorns — and 
not a few of the animals showed high merit, capable of taking prizes 
in many Eastern fairs. The exhibit demonstrated that at lea^st some 
of the breeders of the State are well to the front in their work. There 
were fewer animals shown than would have been expected from so 
large a State. One reason for this was the small number of regis- 
tered herds in California as compared with other dair}^ States, and 
another was the lack of sufficient interest on the part of owners of 
well-bred stock. There are numerous herds of blooded dairy cattle 
throughout the State; but it appears that the benefits of showing at 
the fair are not considered equal to the drawbacks, one of the greatest 
of which is the long and expensive haul to and from the fair. With- 
out strong inducement, a breeder of fine cattle will not subject his 
animals to the excitement of travel and noisy crowds. 

DAIRY MACHINERY. 

The displays of creamery and dairy machinery and utensils were 
quite similar to what would be seen at a large Eastern fair; in fact, 
much of this apparatus is furnished to California supply houses from 
Eastern factories. On an elevated platform the operations of a work- 
ing creamer}^ were carried on daih^. This instructive feature is com- 
mendable and worthy of imitation. The time and place of such an 

9 



10 

exhibition should Ije thoroughly advertised, so that all who might want 
to see it would know about it. 



About thirty samples of butter — in squares, rolls, tubs, and small 
export packages — were entered for prizes. It was in three classes — 
fresh, June storage, and packed for export. Six prizes — $30, $25, 
$20, $15, $10, and $5 — were offered in each of the first two classes, 
and three prizes— -$25, $20, and $15 — were offered for export butter. 
Although these prizes did not attract an exceptionally large number of 
entries, the competing samples were representative of all sections of 
the State and they were uniformly of high quality. The butter was 
judged Ijy Mr. W. D. McArthur, of San Francisco, a temporary special 
agent of this division, and the writer. The following table gives the 
names of exhibitors, their addresses, and scores. In order to show the 
districts where the exhibited samples were produced, the State is divided 
into five parts of about equal size, by imaginary east-and-west lines; 
these are designated from north to south by the letters A, B, C, D, 
and E, respectivel}', and the letters are shown in the first column of 
the table: 

Scores oa hutler at the California State fair, Septeviber IS, 1899. 



Kxhibitors. 



Sec- 
tion. 



Flavor 
(50). 



Grain 

(25). 



Color 
(10). 



Salt (10) . 



Appear- 
ance 

(5). 



Total 
(100). 



FRESH. 

Alton Creamery Co., Alton 

Eel River Creamery Co., Ferndale. . 

Geo. E. Peoples, Bakersfield 

O. J. Vine, Lakeport 

G. G. Knox, Gratton 

Allen Quain, Stockton 

.Joseph Sheppard, Point Arena 

O. E. Jones, Newman 

Lockeford Creamery Co., Lockeford 

,1. N. Keiser, Hollister 

J. A. Howie, Compton 

Warren Myers, Woodland 

C. A. Starkweather, Oakdale 

W. T. Mitchell, Susan ville 

Geo. E. Newman, Lompoc 

JUNE STORAGE. 

W. M. Twiner, Sierra Valley 

Yj. H. Zimmerman, Wat.sonville 

J. H. Keiser, Hollister 

D. Broiigh, Newman 

A. J. Bloom, Petaluma 

Bailey Bros., Cresei'nt (^itv 

W. T. Mitchell, Su.sanville" 

O. J. Vine, Lakeport 

O. E. .Jones, Newman 

C. A. Starkweather, Oakdale 



47* 
47i 
47 J 

m 

47i 

47i 

47i 

47 

46i 

46 

45 

46i 

46i 

45 



45 

44i 

44 

44 

44 

43 

42i- 

42 

42i 

42 



23J 

23i 

23i 

23 

23 

23 

22J 

22f 

22i 

22i 

22i 

23 

22 

22J 

22} 



22.1 

22i 

23 

22i 

23 



10 
10 
10 
10 

9} 
10 
10 
10 
10 

9J 
10 
10 
10 

9 
10 



10 
10 
10 

9^ 
10 
10 
10 
10 

9} 
10 



10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 

9} 
10 

9J 



96i 
96i 
96 

951 

95i 

95 

95 

94i 

93j 

93i 

93 

93i 

93i 

92i 



93 

92i 

92 

9H 

91 

901 

90 

90 

m 

89i 



Butter in small cans for export. 

[Cans scored equally; judged on quality of butter.] 

Dairymen'.s Union of California, San Francisco, first premium for butter in paraf- 
fined jjaper can; Ililmer, Bredhof & Schulz, San Francisco, second premium for butter 
in lithographed tin can; Sussman, Wormser & Co., San Francisco, third premium for 
butter in lithographed tm can. 



11 

Both first and second prizes on fresh-made butter went to creameries 
in Humboldt County, a large county near the northern boundary of the 
State, bordering- on the ocean, and possessing exceptional advantages 
for dairying. Some well-informed dair^'-men claim that this county 
is the best natural dairy district in the world. The third prize on 
fresh-made butter was taken by a creamery in the southern part of 
the State. The fourth and fifth prizes went to the district just north 
of an east-and-west line through San Francisco, and the sixth prize to 
the district just south of the same line. All of the entries of storage 
butter were from the central and northern parts of the State. 

It happened that the Humboldt County creameries had a distinct 
advantage over most of the others in the State at the time the fresh 
butter was made for the fair, as many factories elsewhere were then 
receiving milk from patrons whose pastures were suffering on account 
of the dry season, and undesirable flavors could not be avoided, while 
the pastures in Humboldt were in good condition. The aroma and 
flavor of the Humboldt County butter were excellent. It was also 
exceptionally well made and well packed, as was shown by the fact 
that it stood the three daj^s' journey by boat and rail from the cream- 
eries to Sacramento without unusual protection. It was in the regular 
California squares, described on page 25. Other entries were in small 
tubs. 

Butter in hermeticall}^ sealed pound packages for export was 
exhibited in small quantity. The judges deemed it best not to 
attempt to decide the merits of the different packages, as the experi- 
mental shipments of butter from the Pacific coast to trans-Pacific 
ports, now being made by the United States Department of Agricul- 
ture, are partly for the purpose of testing the several packages availa- 
ble for shipments without refrigeration to tropical points. Therefore 
in this class prizes were awarded on the basis of the quality of the 
butter in the cans; and in this respect there was considerable varia- 
tion, some of the samples being decidedly rancid. These small cans 
had been exposed for several days to high temperatures. Possibly 
they were thus put through more unfavorable conditions than would 
be encountered on a voyage to the Tropics, but this was probably not 
the case. They again showed that hermetically scaled cans will not, 
under all circumstances, preserve the good qualities of butter, as some 
people seem to think they are capable of doing. 

THE dairymen's ASSOCIATION. 

The sixth annual meeting of the California State Dairymen's Asso- 
ciation was held during the State fair at the capitol building. It was 
attended by leading dairymen, creamery men, and cheese factory men 
from all parts of the State. Representatives were present from com- 
mission houses in San Francisco and Sacramento. The State Univer- 



12 

sity was well represented, and the sessions were visited by prominent 
citizens. The press of the State gave liberally of its space in report- 
ing- the proceedings. A regular programme had not been prepared, as 
it was thought best to occupy the time with informal discussions on 
the special subject which the secretary had announced in advance, 
namely, "The export of dairy products from the Pacific coast." The 
topic was opportune, and its various phases were taken up and dis- 
cussed in a logical way. A brief resume of the facts brought out in 
the discussion follows. 

THE INCREASE OF BUTTER PRODUCTION. 

First, it was pointed out that dairying in the older States is being 
promoted and encouraged by various agencies, such as well-equipped 
dairy schools, live dairy associations, and efficient State dairy connnis- 
sioners. And it is now being extensively developed as a new industry 
in certain large sections of the United States where only a few A^ears 
ago cows were seldom seen. As examples of this recent dair}^ growth 
the activities in Georgia and the Dakotas were referred to. All this 
shows that our home markets will continually be more and more plen- 
tifull}^ supplied, and in many cases competition will be keen. 

It was stated that the production of dairy products in California is 
increasing and in some sections very rapidly. This is not surprising 
when one considers how the industr}^ is favored b}^ many natural con- 
ditions, of which too much could hardly be said. The mild climate, 
splendid natural grazing, and the tremendous crops of alfalfa which 
can be raised at small cost almost make it seem that California has 
been favored above all other States. Man}^ of the great wheat ranches 
are gradually adopting dairying as a secondary interest, and some of 
them have gone into it farther than they had originally planned. 
Large herds of dairy cows (PI. I, fig. 1) are becoming common, and 
the owners of less than one hundred cows refer to their "small herds" 
very much as an Eastern dairyman would speak of his fifteen or twenty 
cows. New creameries are in operation at many points. Besides the 
advantages named, the markets for dairy products have been good. 
It has been possible for the California dairyman to produce cheaply 
and sell well. It is therefore not unlikely that the growth of dairying 
will continue, and within a few years more butter and cheese will be 
made than the home market will require^ California dairymen will 
then face conditions similar to those already met in the Eastern markets. 

FOREIGN MARKETS FOR SURPLUS. 

In the second place, the possibilities of finding markets for surplus 
in countries bordering on the Pacific Ocean were discussed. Although 
some of those lands fairly swarm with people, only small quantities of 
dairy products are sent to them, and these supplies are chiefly for the 
few foreigners who are there — Americans, English, Germans, and 



13 

French. As a rule the natives have not _yet learned to use butter and 
cheese, but extracts from consular reports were read which showed 
that in some cases they are commencing to eat dairy products and a 
gradual increase in their demands may be expected. With improve- 
ment of domestii; and commercial conditions, new tastes are developed 
and new wants are manifested. This is shown in the upward growth 
of every nation. Just at this time the changes which are taking place 
in some Asiatic countries are attracting the attention of the world. 
Every commercial nation is looking for new trade in articles not before 
called for, and in this respect California merchants propose to take an 
important place. American flour is a product which has successfully 
established a market for itself within the past few years. Large quan- 
tities are now shipped to places where it was once prophesied flour would 
never be commonly used. Other illustrations could be given of Ameri- 
can products which have found favor. Jvidging ])y the success along 
other lines and by the small beginning already made by our butter 
and cheese, the Western dairymen have good reason to feel encour- 
aged in their hopes of finding large markets across the Pacific. And 
it may be profitable to have such an abundant surplus that regular and 
frequent shipments can be made, at least during the season of greatest 
production, at which time there will be but little competition from 
dairy countries south of the equator. 

Furthermore, attention was called to the fact that most of the small 
amount of butter going to the points referred to is now supplied by 
Denmark, France, and Australia, and, as a rule, the products from 
these countries are sold at prices in excess of what is paid for "States 
goods." In other words, the present limited demand for dairy prod- 
ucts in the far East is being supplied chiefly by our competitors, and 
they frequently receive as high as 50 cents per pound for their butter. 
The California dairymen should, and many of them do, appreciate 
that the best way to assure themselves of enjoying a large share of 
the future trade with the Pacific countries is to secure and hold a large 
share of the present trade with those countries. 

PREPARATION OF BUTTER FOR WARM CLIMATES. 

It having been shown that there may soon be a surplus of dair}'^ 
products available for export, that in the near future large markets 
for these products may be developed at trans-Pacific points, and 
especially that the United States does not share in the present trade 
to the extent that she should, the next question considered was how 
butter should be prepared for shipment to warm climates. There was 
an interesting discussion on the various phases of this question, par- 
ticipated in by dairymen, creamery men, and scientists, and numerous 
ideas of practical value were advanced. The want of refrigerated 
compartments for ocean transportation makes the problem quite 
diflierent from what it is in the East. 



14 

As to the kind of butter wanted, all agreed that for export without 
refrigeration it should be of particularly hard body and high melting 
point. More stress was laid on this than on the necessity of its having 
a high flavor. A clean, mild flavor is wanted, and an article of close 
texture, with a dry, solid bod}^ and capable of resisting the efl^ect of 
heat as much as may be. At the same time producers were warned 
not to make such butter Except for foreign trade, as it would not sell 
as well as the regular creamery in home markets. 

Causes affecting hardmsss of hitter. — It is believed that the body, or 
hardness, of butter is largely within control of the feeder and butter 
maker. It is thought by some that butter made from milk containing 
large fat globules has a lower melting point than that made from milk 
containing small fat globules. According to this theory, butter from 
Channel Island stock would be softer than that from the so-called 
"cheese" breeds, a proposition that was opposed by not a few. It 
was stated, also, that butter made from milk taken during the latter 
part of the period of lactation is harder than that from milk taken 
soon after calving. That the body of butter can be easily affected by 
variations in manufacture is well known. 

An important cause of difference in hardness is supposed to be dif- 
ference in the relative proportions of the component parts of the butter 
fat caused by various kinds of feed. An increase in the stearin and- 
palmatin, which are solids at ordinary temperatures, and a correspond- 
ing decrease in olein, which is an oil at ordinary temperatures, would 
cause butter to be harder, while changes of an opposite nature would 
make it softer. Practical experience and a few experiments show that 
the hardness of butter can l)e affected to a certain extent by the feeds 
given the cows. It was generally agreed that butter is made hard by 
the addition to the ration of a small amount of potatoes; cotton-seed 
meal has a similar effect, but too much of it wiU taint the butter. One 
person said oat hay and green corn fodder also have somewhat the same 
effect. On the other hand, linseed meal causes soft butter, and alfalfa 
hay when used alone does the same. An instance was given of a herd 
which had been fed on alfalfa and Bermuda grass and was changed to 
a pasture of young barley that had dried up before it was fully grown. 
The butter immediately became very hard. A commission merchant 
reported that the butter from one of his shippers suddenly became 
hard and would not melt as readily as usual. Upon investigation it 
was found that the herd had recently been turned onto a stubble field. 
Sugar beet pulp and tops were not discussed, but some facts about 
them are given below. 

Method of 'inaking. — No special points were brought out regarding 
the manufacture of butter for the new trade. The ordinary methods 
are followed, but the necessity of using great care in every step of the 
work, so as to produce the highest grade article, was emphasized. The 
butter maker should discard all dirtv milk. He can not afford to 



15 

introduce into the butter millions of bacteria of many species, which 
ma}^ cause bad flavors, when the}'^ can easily be excluded. It was 
recommended both to wash and to work the butter a little more than 
usual, to get out as much as possible of the casein, albumen, and sugar, 
which are excellent materials for bacteria to feed upon. Even when 
all possible precautions have been taken there will still be many 
bacteria in the finished product. Coloring and salting need not be 
different from the home requirements, unless to comply with special 
orders. It is the practice to do the canning in the butter cellars at 
San Francisco, using any butter sent to that market that appears to 
be satisfactory. The butter can be cut from large packages in lumps 
of proper size for the cans, so that reworking it is not necessary. 
Probably this method will obtain until a regular export trade is 
developed which will make it more economical to install canning appli- 
ances in the creameries. 

The packages should be as nearly sterile as practicable at the time 
they are filled. They may be easily sterilized by exposure to steam 
in a tight chest of wood or galvanized iron. In packing, care should 
be taken to exclude the air as much as possible by having the butter 
completely fill the can. This is for the double purpose of keeping 
out bacteria which might be floating on dust particles in the air and to 
avoid furnishing one of the essentials for growth to those bacteria in 
the butter which can not develop without air. After the can is sealed 
some change takes place, unless it is held in cold storage, and this does 
not seem strange when it is remembered that, in spite of all the care 
which may be taken, some air will be in the cans and the butter is very 
likely to contain some bacteria which can thrive even in the absence of 
air. Thus it is seen that although hermetically sealed packages have 
many advantages they are not a panacea. The problem is not yet 
satisfactorily solved. 

Preservatives. — There is a disposition on the part of some to use 
preservatives to hold bacteria in check, and various compounds of 
this class are on the market and are ver}^ strongl}^ indorsed by those 
interested in their sale. Many misleading statements have been made 
in their favor. It has not been scientifically demonstrated whether 
preservatives in butter are harmful to consumers or not, but dairy 
scientists and leading dairymen strongly object to them on general 
grounds and the laws of some States forbid their use. It is interesting 
to note that Danish butter, which holds the first place wherever it is 
sold, is free from preservatives, and it is almost unnecessary to add 
that no preservatives are or have been used in butter sent abroad by 
the United States Department of Agriculture. It is to be hoped that 
the California dair^'^men will not adopt them until an unquestioned 
authority has plainly shown that their advantages exceed their disad- 
vantages. Their general use at this time might cause great injury tc 
the fair reputation the State is seeking for its dairy products. A 



16 

resolution condemning their use was adopted by the Dairymen's 
Association. 

It is argued that in some respects the process of digestion is similar 
to fermentation, and that any substance which stops the usual changes 
in a food product will also affect its digestibility. Furthermore, some 
and perhaps all of the active chemical substances in preservatives have 
distinct influence on the functions of certain organs of the body. No 
one cares to take a dose of medicine without need of it, much less 
regular and frequent doses of an unknown substance, even though they 
are small, and many persons would prefer to go without a certain food 
than to run such a risk. Still another objection to preservatives is the 
fact that they make it impossible for the butter maker to control the 
cream ripening and the development of desired flavors. As a matter 
of fact the effect of preservatives could be made unnecessary in most 
cases where they are used. A few milk producers and butter makers 
have unfortunately learned that these substances are, so far as appear- 
ances go, a fair substitute for cleanliness. By improving their methods 
they could do away with the use of the questionable compounds and 
enjo}^ a clear conscience in delivering to their customers goods known 
bej'ond a doubt to be pure. Preservatives do not wholly stop bacteria 
from growing and multiplying, and it is safe to say that by observing 
scrupulous cleanliness pure butter could be made which would keep 
as well as or better than the ordinary kind preserved. The pasteuri- 
zation of milk for making butter for export is practicable, and it may 
be that this, in connection with cleanliness, will be the true solution 
of the problem. 

Packages. — A round tin can holding 1 pound is the favorite pack- 
age. Until quite recently all the joints of the can have been closed 
with solder, but now a special machine is used for fastening the top 
without solder, thus doing away with the necessity of applying heat 
to the can after it is fllled. It is important to have the cans mad(> of 
a good quality of standard tin (tin weighing about 100 pounds to the 
box has given satisfaction), and special care should be used to have 
them smoothly finished. The inside of the can is usually paraffined or 
lined with parchment paper; sometimes both paraffin and parchment 
paper are used. 

The sale of butter always depends to a varying extent upon the 
appearance of the packages, and among the oriental people appearance 
has a decided influence. They like neatness and decoration, and there- 
fore it pays to finish the cans in a way that will please them. Seals, 
trade-marks, fancy figures, and lettering are recommended. Paper 
labels soon become soiled, rubbed, and torn, and cans thus marked 
will be passed by for prettily lacquered ones. Some buyers attach 
more importance to the appearance of the packages than to the quality 
of their contents. There is no doubt that an official seal or stamp 



17 

showing inspection by an authorized person would often serve as a 
guaranty and aid in sales. Cans opened b}^ removing with a "ke}'^" 
a narrow strip of tin from the side near the top have an advantage 
over the old-fashioned style and are much preferred in some markets. 

SOME PURPOSES OF THE DEPARTMENT'S EXPORTS. 

During the discussions on the general subject of exports an account 
of the efforts of the Department of Agriculture to find and develop 
new markets for our dairy products was given. A letter from Maj. 
H. E. Alvord, Chief of the Dairy Division of the Bureau of Animal 
Industry, Department of Agriculture, was read and received with 
applause. It told of the experiments already made in exporting high- 
grade butter to the English market, and explained the purpose of the 
Department to conduct similar experiments from the Pacific coast, by 
sending small lots of selected butter and cheese to a half dozen of the 
largest seaport cities of Japan and China, to show that the best grades 
of dairy products can be procured in this country, and to obtain 
information as to the best ways of shipment. It was pointed out that 
while a temporary overproduction of butter or cheese can be easily 
cared for and kept off the market by our excellent storage facilities, a 
continued production of goods of high grade in excess of the home 
demand would result seriously to the dairy interests by causing a fall 
of prices, unless a profitable outlet could be found for the surplus. 
This fact commends to all dairymen any effort's to extend markets for 
milk products. Whether they are personally interested in exporting 
or not, their welfare may largel}^ depend upon the success of those 
who are engaged in foreign trade. 

It is most important for our butter and cheese to bear a good repu- 
tation in all foreign markets, £o that they will be received at their 
true value at any time they are offered for sale, and this thought was 
plainly brought out by several speakers. Such a desirable condition 
does not now exist, owing partly to the fact that a large proportion of 
the dairy products sent out from this country is inferior in quality. 
This is well known to be the case with shipments from New York; it 
is also true of shipments from San Francisco. Some of the Western 
merchants argue that, as the butter will be somewhat off flavor any- 
way when it reaches its destination, it will make little difference if it 
is just a bit inferior when it starts ! This mistake is largely responsi- 
ble for the fact that our butter in cans sells in many places at prices 
25 to 50 per cent lower than the goods from other countries. 

Much interest was shown in the efforts of this Department to 
improve present conditions and there were many liberal offers of 
assistance. Especially was this generous spirit shown by some cream- 
eries that were willing practically to place themselves at our disposal 
for the preparation of goods for export. The possible needs of the 
12809— No. 24 2 



18 

Department were fully discussed with the officers of one well-equipped 
plant and they will hold themselves ready to till any requirements on 
short notice. 



THE PRESENT EXPORT TRADE. 

A short time was spent in San Francisco arranging details in con- 
nection with our experimental exports. Although the three steam- 
ship lines to Hawaii, Japan, and China have more than they can do 
and are now refusing freight, their officials showed an interest in the 
work of the Department and agreed to assist in the experimental 
exports by carrjnng our consignments whenever offered. Thej^ do 
not have much call for service in refrigerated compartments and 
nothing of this kind is provided.^ 

By referring to the table below it will be seen that present ship- 
ments of dairy products would not justify transportation companies 
to go to very great expense for their exclusive accommodation. Nor 
is it now possible for this Department to guarantee to the steamship 
lines payment for freight on the full capacity of their refrigerators if 
not filled, as the Canadian government has practically done in some 
instances, to the great benefit of her dairy interests. The three prin- 
cipal trans-Pacific countries to which butter and cheese are sent from 
the United States are Japan, China, and Hongkong, and the amounts 
these countries and the Hawaiian Islands have received in recent years 
are shown in the following table. Of course, most of the shipments 
to these countries from the United States are from the Western ports. 

Exports of butler and cheese from the United States to Japan, China, Hongkong, and 
Hawaiian Islands, 1893-1899. 

[From Commerce and Navigation of the United States, Treasury Department.] 



Year ended 


Japan. 


China. 


Hongkong. 


Hawaiian Islands. 


June 30— 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Quantity. 


Value; 


Quantity. 


Value. 


BUTTER. 

1893 


Pounds. 
56, 664 
58, 189 
77, 00] 

101,751 
87, 180 

115, 203 
92, 495 

10,480 
14,153 
13,051 
31, 960 
40,965 
35,594 
52, 580 


Dollars. 
11,402 
11,534 
14, 007 
18,103 
15,654 
23, 097 
18,592 

1,355 

1,884 
1,553 
3,603 
4,433 
3,867 
5,965 


2'ounds. 
5,789 
5, 768 
.5,528 
20, 277 
25,336 
21, 555 
22,337 

31,009 
29, 104 
28,787 
35,290 
41,690 
44, 264 
101,950 


Dollars. 
1,303 
1,312 
1,097 
3,709 
4,621 
4,688 
5,159 

4,122 
3,777 
3, 507 
3,779 
4,589 
4,817 
11,161 


Pounds. 
7, 491 
5, 000 
1,165 
3, 536 
3,8.50 
13, 315 


Dollars. 

1,793 

1,048 

245 

708 

725 

2,779 


Pounds. 
114,355 
72, 578 
122, 855 
128, 847 
127, 037 
152, 367 


Dollars. 
23, 253 


1894 


15, 992 


1895 


23,068 


1896 


23,243 


1897 


22, 808 


1898 

1899 


34, .561 


CHEESE. 
1893 


15, 348 
9,973 
17, 367 
16, 681 
81,380 
93, 205 


1,989 
1,323 
2,052 
1, 922 
9,168 
10,106 


77,158 
80, 787 
87,615 
93, 795 
100, 585 
138, 976 


9,944 


1894 


10, 290 


1895 


10, 113 


1896 . 


10, 761 


1897 


11,073 


1898 


14,975 


1899 








' 







'It is reported that a refrigerator plant has just Wvn installed on a sailing vessel 
between San Francisco and the Hawaiian Islands and refrigerated compartments will 
be open for perishable articles. 



19 

In this connection it is interesting to note that thus far the total 
shipments from the Pacific coast have not been lar*>-e. The followinj^ 
table shows the exports of ))utter and cheese in recent years from the 
two principal exporting* districts — San Francisco and Puget Sound. 
By comparing- the two tables it will be seen that only a small part of 
the total exports are sent across the ocean. As a rule, less than 25 
per cent of the butter leaving the Pacific coast goes to China, Japan, 
and Hongkong. A large proportion of the exported butter is packed 
with brine in firkins. 

E-vports of butter and cheese froni Scm Francisco and Puget Sound, 1893-1898. 
[From Commerce and Navigation of the United States, Treasury Department.] 



Year ended June 30— 


San Francisco. 


Puget Sound. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


Quantity. 


Value. 


BUTTER. 

1893 


Pounds. 
409, 428 
444, 740 
333, 596 
386, 422 
421,191 

525. 490 

227. 491 
239, 580 
218, 805 
246, 773 
352, 202 
382,850 


Dollars. 
84, 242 
92, .538 
60, 621 
69,144 
74, 268 

113, 743 

29, 712 
31, 176 
26, 374 
28, 107 
39,225 
41,463 


Pounds. 
6,116 
25,695 
35, 367 
49,118 
113, 676 
93,740 

11,301 
2, 628 
6, .502 
5,957 
19, 664 
12,623 


Dollars. 
1 589 


1894 


5,569 

7,279 

9,497 

21 915 


1895 


1896 


1897 


1898 


20, 446 
1 252 


CHEESE. 

1893 


1894 


386 


1895 


696 


1896 


720 


1897 


2,499 
1 707 


1898 







UNNATURAL CONDITIONS OF HOME MARKETS. 



Although as much butter is probably made in California as is used 
in the State, the production is so uneven that at certain seasons of the 
year it is found necessary to import from the East. Large quantities 
of cheese are also sent from New York and Wisconsin to supplement 
the output of the home factories. Frequently the goods shipped in 
are not the best. They usually sell well, however, as they meet little 
competition with suj^erior grades. This peculiar condition will not 
last when the Coast production has further increased. 

DAIRY MANAGEMENT. 

The various grain feeds commonly used by dairymen in the East 
are seldom used in California. The feeding stufi's principally depended 
upon are natural pasturage, alfalfa, roots, and hay. The climate is so 
mild that the pasture season is unusually long; in fact, in some dis- 
tricts it has no end. In Humboldt County grain is not fed; cows are 
pastured the entire year. The pasture is principally red clover and 
Italian rye grass, and it is supplemented in fall and winter with green 
peas, carrots, beets, corn fodder, and hay. That the cattle do well 
with this care is shown by the fact that some herds of grade stock 
average over 300 pounds of butter per year, and the cows, as a rule, 
are in good condition. 



20 

In the alfalfa districts one hears almost incredible reports concerning 
the productiveness of the soil. Enormous crops are common, and 
five or six cuttings a year are not unusual. Irrigation is practiced to 
a considerable extent. Here, too, grain is seldom used. When cows 
are grazing they are usually givpn a small amount of hay at night, 
and a little bran is occasionally fed. One dairyman, who paid $175 an 
acre for his iO-acre ranch, reports that he receives about $100 per 
month from the creamery for the milk of his 30 cows. He uses no 
grain, pastures eight months, and feeds hay four months each j^ear. 
His herd consists of ordinary grades and fairly represents many others 
which have been built up within a short time from stock which is 
better for beef production than for the dairy. 

It is stated on good authority that a dairyman in Yolo County fed 
90 milch cows in a corral from March 10 to Jul}^ 18, 1897, on alfalfa 
cut from 32 acres. No other feed was used. The cows gave satisfac- 
tory results in milk yield and were in better condition at the close of 
the period than at the beginning. The custom of keeping cattle out of 
doors is made possible by the prevailing mild climate. On many 
ranches the animals never go under a roof to be milked or for any 
other purpose. 

These facts make it evident that the California dairymen have good 
cause to boast of their ability to produce milk cheaply. As might be 
expected, they have much room for improvement. They admit that 
in many ways their methods are extravagant and not a few of them 
are leading in movements toward economy. The more careful selec- 
tion of cows for the dairy and especially the selection of good stock 
^ DT breeding is a line of improvement which would show splendid 
results. This general subject was fully discussed in an early bulletin 
of the Dairy Division of this Bureau (Dairying in California), and 
need not be further referred to here. 

BEET-SUGAR BY-PKODUCTS. 

But something should be said of the use as feed of sugar-beet pulp 
and tops, which, though comparatively recent, is very conmion in 
some localities. Sugar beets are extensively raised in the vicinity of 
beet-sugar mills, of which there are several in the State. Three such 
districts were visited, namely, Alvarado, Watsonville, and Salinas. 
As a matter of general interest, it may be stated that a good crop of 
beets runs about 15 tons to the acre, and the price for the year 1899, 
as agreed upon in advance by the sugar companies and the farmers, is 
^1.50 per ton. During the harvesting season there is on some da3^s 
an almost continuous procession of two, three, four, and six horse 
beet wagons on every important road leading to the factories. The 
roots are loaded onto strong nets in high wagon racks and are quickly 



Bui. No. 24, Bureau of Animal Industiy. 



Plate 




Fig. 1.— a California Dairy Herd. 




Fig. 2.— Combined Dairy and Sugar-Beet Ranch. 



21 

tumbled into the bins by raising one side of the net with the aid of a 
steam engine and tackle. 

Sugar-heetpulp. — Sugar-beet pulp/ which is the principal by-product 
in the manufacture of beet sugar, is usually sold for 125 to 30 cents a 
ton at the factory. Last year the price was as high as 50 cents. As it 
can be held a long time in silo and is fed to best advantage when old, 
it is available the entire year. The use of fresh pulp is said to reduce 
the milk flow. It is supposed to be good when a few weeks old and 
better at six months, and will keep two or three years. 

When fresh the pulp is piled or placed in a silo (PI. II, fig. 1) where 
it remains undisturbed until needed for use. The material is so soft 
and moist that if a large pile is dumped in the corner of an inclosed 
space it will gradually settle until the surface is almost level. Of 
course the top part deca}' s, and after a time the entire mass is cov- 
ered with a protecting layer from 3 to 6 inches in thickness. Within 
a few months the individual pieces of beet which were originally 
2 or 3 inches long and quite slender are broken down, and the appear- 
ance of the material reminds one of cold mush," grayish brown in color. 
Thrv'e tons of fresh pulp make about 1 ton cured. 

Pulp has a tendency to fatten and it is given to beef cattle without 
the addition of any other food, but for milch cows its effect is found 
to be best when used with a little grain or hay. Without these latter 
it is supposed to produce a thin and watery milk. One feeder uses 
corn with pulp, another feeds about 3 pounds of bran daily. When 
pulp is fed in considerable quantity the animals do not care for 
water and may go for months without a drink. A feeder who has 
been using this by-product several years complains that when his cows 
have been fed for a long time on pulp their calves are likely to come 
weak and be troubled with scours. Another dairyman of less experi- 
ence who feeds the pulp fresh states that in his observation it has no 
bad effect on the calves. 

A herd of 200 milch cows kept near a beet-sugar factory about 40 
miles south of San Francisco is given a daily ration of 60 pounds of 
pulp, 5 pounds of mixed ground grain, and a little hay. The cows 
were seen in the pasture and appeared to be in good health and flesh. 
The milking cows averaged almost 2 gallons each per day. Their 

* The average analysis of diffusion pulps is given by Mr. G. L. Spencer in the 1898 
Yearbook, as follows: 

Moisture 89. 09 

Nitrogenous matter 92 

Digestible carbohydrates 6. 52 

Indigestible carbohydrates 1. 98 

Fat 09 

Mineral matter 1. 40 

Total 100. 00 



22 

milk is shipped to a dealer in San Francisco, who pays 12^ cents per 
gallon for it the year through and 1^ cents per gallon for railroad 
freight. The production is greatest from February to May. Butter 
made from milk of this herd, for experimental export, was found to 
have exceedingly good body, a satisfactory flavor, and an apparent!}' 
first-class keeping quality. 

On a ranch near Watsonville, which supplies milk to a creamery, 
pulp has been used a few months each year for the past eight years. 
About 100 pounds a day are given to each animal. 

It is the general opinion that pulp causes the butter to be hard. 

Sugar-heet toj)s. — By "beet tops " is meant the leaves and the extreme 
top parts or crowns of the beets cut off when the beets are being piled 
ready for hauling. They are availal)le during the harvesting of the 
crop, which lasts about three months. (See PL II, fig. 2.) This por- 
tion of the crop has some fertilizing value, and it is often plowed under 
on that account. Indeed, some beet-sugar companies which own large 
tracts of land forbid the removal of the tops. But cjonsiderable quan- 
tities of beet tops are fed and good results are claimed. The market 
value of this feed depends almost entirely on the prices of other feed- 
ing stuffs. When feeds are high, tops sell for $3.50 to H-i per acre on 
the ground; this year (1899) the price is about $2.50. It is best to 
allow the tops to wilt two or three days before being gathered and 
fed. They are then easily handled and not as liable to physic the 
cows as when used fresh. If they become crisp, a few green leaves 
are mixed with them before feeding. Unlike the pulp, they cause the 
animals to desire a large amount of water. Many farmers feed the 
tops alone, but it is claimed to be better to use a little bran with them. 
Evadently they are satisfactory to the cows, as little else is eaten when 
the cows are turned out to pasture. ' Some people claim that beet tops 
give a peculiar flavor to the butter, but only a few made this criticism. 

One dairjaiian })rought his entire herd of 90 grade Durham and Hol- 
stein cows from his own ranch to a beet farm where he had bought the 
privilege of using the tops. After the crop has been gathered he 
will move back to the home place. At the date of the visit of the 
writer the cows had been fed on beet tops five days and were running 
on wheat stubble. The owner stated that their milk yield had dou- 
bled in that short time, the average being ahnost 2 gallons a day. 
Before the removal, hay was the principal feed. This man makes the 
butter himself and sells it in the local market at highest San Fran- 
cisco prices. It is always hard when he is feeding beet tops. A 
dairyman who feeds beet tops two or three months each year states 
that one September he sent a barrel of butter made from beet-top milk 
to a mining camp. It was packed in rolls and covered with l)rinc, and 
it lasted so long, remained hard, and kept so well under unfavorable 
conditions that it attracted much attention, and orders were received 
for more of the same kind. 



BuL No^ 24, Buieau of Animal Industry. 



Plate II. 




Fig. 1.— Sugar-Beet-Pulp Silo. 




Fig. 2.— Wilted Beet Tops from the Field ready for Feeding. 



23 

CALIFORNIA CREAMERIES. 

There are about 300 creameries in California, and, judging by the few 
visited and what was reported of many others, they are well equipped 
and capable of doing good work. It appears that they are, as a rule, 
profitable inv^estments. The charge for making butter is commonly 
as high as 3i cents per pound, and until quite recently creameries 
charged 4^ cents. One establishment, now receiving daily 10,000 
pounds of milk from TO patrons and averaging about 7 tons of butter 
per month, has been in operation four years, and during that time 
almost $5,000 from the regular earnings have been invested in perma- 
nent improvements, besides paying good dividends. Inasmuch as it 
took some time to grow from a small beginning, this is a good record. 

As a rule, the creameries run every day of the year. The output 
of the one just referred to, which is in an alfalfa district, is largest in 
Ma}', being 8i tons last May; in April 8 tons were made; in Novem- 
ber 6i tons; and in December 5i tons, the smallest monthly output. 

In equipment the creameries are quite similar to those in the East. 
Box and combined churns, separators, vats, in fact, practically all of 
the apparatus, is from the East. One plant, receiving in September, 
14,000 pounds of milk a day and the cream of as much more from its 
two skimming stations, uses an ice-making machine capable of pro- 
ducing 3 tons of ice in a da}^; the direct expansion system is used. A 
large tank of brine is suspended near the top of the butter room, and 
when it is desired to shutdown the ice machine the brine is thoroughly 
cooled and it keeps the temperature in the workroom low until the 
machinery is again started. This creamer}^ had the honor of making 
and packing in 3-pound cans 3 tons of butter for the U. S. S. Oregon for 
her famous trip around the Horn. The butter was made in the usual 
way, except a little drier. It was reported to have been good to the 
last. 

PAYMENT FOR MILK. 

The method of payment for milk, as explained at two cooperative 
creameries, is as follows: Composite samples of each patron's milk are 
tested by the Babcock test once or twice every month, and a statement 
of the amount of milk delivered by each person and the average tests 
is handed to the secretary early in the following month. The total 
amount of butter made and any deliveries to patrons are also reported 
at the same time. The secretary computes the amount of fat brought 
by each patron and the total. The overrun is then determined (and it 
is usually found to be about 16 per cent). The fat delivered by the 
different patrons is increased in the proper proportion and each is cred- 
ited with the delivery of a certain number of pounds of butter. The 
receipts from sales of butter made during the month are reduced by 
the creamery charge for making (3 or 3i cents per pound), and the net 



24 

average rate to be paid to the patrons is determined by dividing the 
amount of money remaining after this reduction by the number of 
pounds of butter delivered. The amount due each patron is then 
found by multiplying the number of pounds of butter credited to him 
by the average rate. Any charges for butter are deducted, and checks 
for the balance are delivered about the middle of the month. 

The method may be illustrated as follows: Suppose a creamery 
receives in June 30,000 pounds of milk testing 3 per cent fat from A; 
40,000 pounds of 3.4 per cent milk from B; 50,000 pounds of 3.7 per 
cent milk from C; 60,000 pounds of 4 per cent milk from D, and the 
total amount of butter made is 7,550 pounds. The operator reports 
these figures to the secretary, who fills them in the first two columns 
of a blank form, as shown below; the remaining numbers are then 
calculated from them and the data received from the sales agent. The 
work is sometimes done with great accuracy by carrying the decimals 
out several points, so that each patron always receives the exact num- 
ber of cents due him. Frequently the secretary of the creamery 
slightly increases or decreases the amount to be distributed by chang- 
ing the rate of payment a few hundredths of a cent per pound so as to 
enable him to use round numbers in his calculations instead of awk- 
ward figures. The difference is adjusted the following month. This 
system of borrowing from or loaning to the next month is very sen- 
sible. It greatly simplifies the secretary's work and, at the most, 
makes a difference of only a few cents in the returns to the various 
patrons, and these small amounts are not taken from them or given to 
them, but simply borrowed or loaned for a month. 



Smithville creamery. — Statement for June, 1899. 



Patron. 


Milk de- 
livered. 


Average 
test. 


Fat deliv- 
ered. 


Equivalent 
in butter. 


Amount 
due. 


Charges. 


Checks. 


A 


Pounds. 
30, 000 
40, 000 
50, 000 
60, 000 


3 

3.4 
3.7 
4 


Pounds. 

900 

1,360 

1,850 

2,400 


Pounds. 
1,044 
1,577.6 
2, 146 
2, 784 


$229. 68 
347. 07 
472. 12 
612. 48 


$2.00 


1227.68 


B . 


347. 07 


C 


1.50 
5.50 


470. 62 


D 


606. 98 






Total .. .. 


180, 000 




a 6, 510 


6 7,551.6 


61,661.35 


9.00 


1,652.85 









a Overrun 16 per cent. 



6 At 22 cents. 



Fat delivered : C, 610 

Butter made 7. 661- 6 



Overrun, 16 per cent. 

3, 000 pounds, at 25.5 cents $765. 00 

2, 000 pounds, at 25 cents 500. 00 

e2oioe J '^> 000 pounds, at 24.5 cents 490. 00 

°*'^^ ^ 551. 6 pounds, at 24.1 cents 132. 93 



7,551.6 1,887.93 

7,551.6 pounds, at 25 cents 1, 887. 90 

Charge for making, 3 cents per pound 226. 55 

Amount due patrons, 7,561.6 pounds at 22 cents 1, 661. 35 

When there are many patrons it is seen that the number of calcula- 
tions is very large. This laborious work could easily be lessened. 



Bui. No. 24, Bureau of Animal Industry, 



Plate III 




Fig. 1.— Creamery at Watsonville. 




Fig. 2.— Butter Chests Awaiting to be Packed. 



Bu' N.i :4 PurH,-iii of Animal Industry. 



Plate IV. 




Fig. 1.— Cutting Squares of Butter. 




Fig. 2.— Wrapping Squares of Butter. 



25 

The column headed "Equivalent in butter" might well be omitted, 
thus saving one series of multiplications. Pa^^ments could be ])ased 
on the amount of fat delivered, the average price per pound being 
found by dividing the sum to be distributed by the pounds of fat 
delivered, or, in the above case, $1,661.35 by 6,510, which gives 25.52 
cents as the value of each pound of pure fat. This rate, with the 
numbers in the column headed "Fat delivered," shows the same 
amounts due the patrons as obtained by the longer method illustrated 
above. 

HANDLING ALFALFA MILK. 

Butter made from milk of alfalfa-fed cows is liable to have a pecul- 
iar flavor unless special care is taken in the handling of the cream. It 
is customary to separate a very heavy cream and to hasten the ripen- 
ing in order to exclude or cover undesirable flavors. The cream tests 
about 40 per cent fat, and the use of homemade or commercial starters 
is not uncommon. In one creamery the cream is stirred continually for 
five hours after it is put into the vat. No doubt this serves to aerate 
it and partially removes undesirable flavors. The cream is churned 
when from twenty to twenty-four hours old and the butter is imme- 
diateh' prepared for market. 

CALIFORNIA SQUARES. 

Practically all the best creamery butter sold on the Pacific coast is 
in squares of about 2 pounds each. The squares are blocks with 
square ends and rectangular sides. The butter is packed on a table 
(PI. rV, fig. 1) fitted with sideboards as high as the squares stand 
when on end. The top surface is carefully leveled even with the 
table sides, and the squares, a number at a time, are cut by wires. 
They are wrapped in parchment paper (PL IV, fig. 2), and packed 
on end in heavy wooden chests (fig. 1). This method of handling- 
butter is excellent in some respects, but it is subject to criticism on 
two important features: First, there is now no uniformity in the 
weights of the squares. One creamery sends cases of sixty If -pound 
squares, or 105 pounds, to Sacramento, and to the same market 
another creamery sends cases holding sixty squares, aggregating 101 
pounds. This latter creamery also sends to San Francisco cases hold- 
ing sixty squares of 93 pounds. It must be both confusing and annoy- 
ing to handle squares of such varying weights, and no really good 
reason for the practice was found. Doubtless many people who pur- 
chase butter do not notice the difference in weights, but consider all 
squares alike, and the seller who can shave off the most without being 
suspected is the gainer. Such competition is not only discreditable 
out dishonest. The second criticism of the method of marketing 
butter relates to the packages. Eastern dealers have learned that it 



26 

is more economical and satisfactory in many ways to use cheap but 
neat boxes for shipping, which do not have to be returned, than to 
use the heavy and expensive trunks or chests that were so common 
only a few years ago. These latter are continually being lost and 
broken, cause anno3^ance at both ends of the line, and require nmch 
labor for proper cleaning (and this is too often neglected), while the 
cheaper packages have not these ol)jections. 

CHEESE MAKING. 

California dairymen and commission men are willing to admit that 
their State does not produce much cheese suitable for export. As a 
rule it is soft, open, and moist, and must be used soon after it is made. 




Fio. 1. — IJutter vacketl ready for aliipmoiit. 

The trouble, in all pro))a])ility, is due to improp- r methods of manu- 
facture, and the surest method of remedying the matter is to teach the 
science of cheese making and the systems successfully followed else- 
where. If such instruction were oifered there is no doubt l)ut that 
those interested would avail themselves of it. 

Only one cheese factory was visited — a private concern on a ranch 
of 4,000 acres. H(n-e the milk from 130 cows, mostly grade Durhams, 
is manufactured into ''Flats" and "Young Americas." The factory 
is a neat little one-story, square, ])rick structure, containing a curing 
room on the main floor and another Ix'low the level of the ground for 
use in hot weather. It is well equipped for making a line article of 
cheese. 



27 

CITY MILK SUPPLY. 

As in many other parts of the country, the business of supplying 
milk to California cities is in an unsettled state. There is a lack of 
cooperation between milk producers, health officers, and milk con- 
sumers, which is detrimental alike to the interests of those who have 
g-ood milk for sale and those who wish to purchase it. Methods 
adopted by public officials for improving the milk supply sometimes 
result in more harm than good. 

Unclean dairies have been so widely advertised in official reports 
and newspaper articles that many citizens think well-conducted dairies 
do not exist, or, if they do, no way is known by which one can be 
assured of getting their milk. And many persons will go without 
milk whenever possible rather than run the risk of getting the dan- 
gerously impure article which they are convinced is very common. 
Thus the scare articles have the effect of reducing the production and 
use of impure milk; but they have the same effect also on the use of 
pure milk. It is unfortunate that the excellent features of the best 
dairies are not given as much prominence as are the defective features 
of the worst, so as to show those interested that good milk is on the 
market as well as bad. A practicable plan by which this could be accom- 
plished could easily be followed, greatlj^ to the benefit of all concerned. 

Although only a few dairies were visited, it was readily seen that at 
least a part of the milk going into Sacramento and San Francisco is 
produced with great care and can be relied upon as a safe and whole- 
some food. As already suggested, if these first-class dairies and 
others like them could be brought to the attention of the public as 
forcibly as the worst types, a decided step would be taken toward the 
improvement of the general city supply. 

DAIRY EDUCATION. 

In striking contrast with California's characteristic energy in 
advancing the interests of many of her industries in every possible 
way, the one method of promoting dairying, which in other States 
is considered of the greatest importance, has thus far been neglected. 
The State is doing nothing in the line of special dairy instruction, and 
her dairy interests are suffering in consequence. The reason may be 
that this branch of agriculture has not until recently become one of 
the important industries of the State, and those having power to assist 
in its promotion have not yet realized its great possibilities. Efforts 
to establish a State dairy school have been made, but without success. 
It was a subject of discussion at the dairymen's convention, and its 
friends will continue to agitate it, hoping that a school will be opened 
in the hear future. 

The necessity for such a school is readily seen. In the past few 



28 

years there have been many improvements and changes in dairy opera- 
tions, and the improvements and changes still continue. Butter and 
cheese makers who now follow comparatively recent but really out-of- 
date methods are working at .a great disadvantage. New forms of 
machiner}'' are constantly being introduced, methods of manufacture 
are being perfected, market requirements are becoming more strict, 
and competition is growing more keen. In order to keep up with 
competitors at home and abroad it has been necessary to provide for 
giving instruction in the latest dairy methods, and special schools have 
been established in all the leading dairy States to meet this urgent 
need. It has been found best to connect them with State agricultural 
colleges, making use, so far as possible, of the latter's equipment. 

In a few States splendid buildings have been erected for the exclu- 
sive use of the dairy schools. In other dairy States, where there is 
less call for instruction, there is less pretentious equipment, but the 
training offered is none the less complete. At Cornell University, 
New York, there is a building, erected and equipped at a cost of 
$50,000, devoted exclusively to dairy instruction, and every year about 
seventy-five men are given a three months' course of lectures in breed- 
ing and feeding of dairy cattle and the manufacture of butter and 
cheese and practical work in a model creamer}' and cheese factory. 
At the State experiment station of the same State a $40,000 building 
has recently been erected to be used chiefly as a laboratory for study- 
ing dairy problems for the benefit of the dairy interests of the State. 
At Madison, Wis., there is another dair}^ school building, which cost 
about $40,000 and where more than a hundred dairy students are 
trained every winter. The wonderful growth of dairying in that 
State is attributed largely to the influence *of the dairy school, grad- 
uates of which can be found in charge of successful cheese factories 
and creameries in almost every county. The dairy school at Ames, 
Iowa, is conducted in connection with a large creamery. Students 
are in attendance at all times of the year. Special sixteen-weeks' 
courses are given to beginners and a four-weeks' winter course is con- 
ducted each winter for experienced butter makers. Over 100 students 
are instructed ever}'^ year. The cost of maintaining the school is less 
than $3,000 per year, and a part of this is earned by the creamery. 
This school and others have furnished experienced butter and cheese 
makers to California. The other leading dairy States are also well 
equipped for giving instruction. Quite recently the legislature of 
Kansas appropriated $34,000 for building and equipping a dairy school 
in that State. 

Special instruction in dairying is offered at more or less well-equipped 
schools in thirty-one States. California is the only one in which the 
industry is at all prominent that is not on the list. The need of a 
dairy school in California is very apparent. The annual reports of the 



29 

State board of trade show the importance of the dairy industry as 
compared to others. The value of California dairy products is equal 
to two-thirds the value of her gold output, and far exceeds the value 
of any other mineral product. The dairy products are worth almost 
half as much as the wheat crop and about half as much as the combined 
crops of all kinds of fruit. The receipts from sales of butter, 
cheese, cream, and milk amount to nearly double the annual expendi- 
tures for the support of the public schools. According to the last 
census California ranks in dairying with other States as follows: Seven- 
teenth in total number of cows; seventeenth in total butter prod- 
uct; ninth in total cheese product. Yet thirty-one States are ahead 
of her in encouraging and promoting dair3"ing by offering special 
dairj^ instruction. It is seen that the dairy interests of many of them 
are smaller than those of California, both in toto and in comparison 
with other industries. 

It is said to be a difficult matter to find capable operators of butter 
and cheese factories; and the same is true of helpers, even though 
these latter receive higher wages than farm laborers. As stated above, 
some well-trained factory operators have gone to California from 
other States. In addition to these there are some, of course, who have 
been successful in picking up their business at home and a few who 
have gone East for their dairy training and then returned to the State. 
But the majority of the butter and cheese makers of any large State 
will not be as well trained in their professions as they should be for 
the good of their work until a dairy school is maintained in that State 
and the}" shall have availed themselves of its advantages. This applies 
with special force to California, because it is so far from other leading 
dairy States and the expensive journey to their schools will prevent 
many from going away for dairy training who might do so if the 
distances were shorter. 



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